Following on from our previous Exeter walks, we decided to take on our biggest adventure yet – an 11.75-mile circular walk from Exeter to Topsham and back. It was our longest walk so far, and although we knew it would be a challenge, it turned out to be one of our favourite routes around Exeter.
This walk had a little bit of everything. We enjoyed peaceful canal paths, beautiful views across the River Exe, an unexpected ferry crossing, a visit to an RSPB bird hide, plenty of wildlife, and even a couple of well-earned refreshment stops along the way. By the end of the day our legs certainly knew we’d been out, but we’d happily do it all again.
Setting Off from Exeter Quay
As with many of our walks, we started at Exeter Quay, following the western side of the Exeter Ship Canal. Passing the Canal Basin on our right, we headed through Riverside Valley Park towards the popular Double Locks Inn.
It was a lovely day for walking, and before long we reached Double Locks where the route continued alongside the canal. Not far beyond, we were greeted by a friendly family of swans who swam over to investigate us. We suspect they thought we had something to feed them! Unfortunately, we hadn’t brought anything with us, although we did wish we had. 🦢
Taking the Quieter Route
After reaching the Swing Bridge on Bridge Road and carefully crossing the busy outer bypass, we decided to try something a little different.
Rather than following the usual cycle route into Topsham or continuing towards the Turf Hotel, we stayed on the left-hand side of the canal to see where the quieter path would take us.
It proved to be a great decision.
For much of this stretch we had water on both sides, with lovely views across the River Exe and the surrounding wetlands. It was incredibly peaceful, and there always seemed to be something interesting to see.
Before we reached the outer bypass, we passed fields of grazing cows and met several friendly dogs out enjoying walks with their owners. Once we’d crossed the bypass and continued along the quieter riverside route, the views really opened up. It was lovely watching some kayakers, paddleboarders and small boats making the most of the sunshine while we continued towards Topsham.
One of the real highlights was watching a pair of swans take off from the water and fly low along the river. If you’ve never heard swans gathering speed before take-off, it’s an unforgettable sound.
Rougher Paths and Views Towards Topsham
Eventually the landscape began to open up, and we followed a trail that branched off to the right alongside the canal.
From here the surface became much rougher underfoot. It was more of a traditional countryside footpath than the maintained canal path we’d been following earlier. Thankfully the weather had been exceptionally dry, but after rain we’d definitely recommend wearing walking boots.
Continuing beneath the impressive M5 flyover, we carried on towards Topsham with increasingly beautiful views across the wetlands and the River Exe.
Before long we reached Topsham Lock and the historic Lock Cottage.
At this point it became obvious that the river was widening, and there wasn’t going to be a bridge across. Fortunately, we’d heard there might be a ferry operating nearby.
An Unexpected Ferry Crossing ⛴️
As we rounded the next bend we came across a small slipway that looked promising.
A quick look around revealed instructions explaining how to raise the yellow buoy to call the ferry across the river.
As luck would have it, we could already see the ferry approaching with passengers on board, so instead of having to wait we were able to enjoy an unexpected ferry ride across the River Exe into Topsham.
It wasn’t something we’d originally planned, but it turned out to be another one of the highlights of the walk and certainly made the route feel that little bit more adventurous.
A Well-Earned Lunch in Topsham
Once across the river, we headed towards the Quay Antiques Centre before deciding it was finally time for a well-earned lunch.
By now we’d already covered a good distance, so sitting down with some food and a drink was exactly what we needed before continuing the next stage of our walk.
After a relaxing break, we set off once again, this time following The Strand before joining Goat Walk.
Discovering Bowling Green Marsh
The Goat Walk took us past RSPB Bowling Green Marsh, a peaceful riverside nature reserve with a free bird observation hide overlooking the marshes.
This was another unexpected surprise.
We spent a while sitting quietly watching the wildlife, enjoying the views across the reserve.
There was so much birdlife to watch, and with the Avocet Line railway visible in the distance it made for a surprisingly relaxing stop.
Even if you’re not a keen birdwatcher, we’d still recommend taking a few minutes here to enjoy the scenery.
On to Darts Farm
Leaving the reserve behind, we passed through the pedestrian tunnel beneath the railway before crossing Goosemoor and the River Clyst Bridge.
Our next destination was Darts Farm, which gave us the perfect excuse for another refreshments stop.
After a drink and a wander around the shops selling local West Country produce, we debated whether to catch the bus back into Exeter.
Although the bus would certainly have been easier on the legs, we decided to complete the walk properly and continue on foot.
The Journey Back to Exeter
Leaving Darts Farm, we made our way back towards Topsham, passing the Old Bridge Inn before following Elm Grove Road towards the level crossing beside Topsham railway station.
From there we walked through Topsham High Street before joining Topsham Road and picking up the cycle route back towards Exeter.
On the way we couldn’t resist a quick look around Plants Galore before continuing our journey.
Eventually we reached Bridge Road and entered River Exe County Park.
Rather than retracing our original route along the same side of the canal, we crossed over at Double Locks and returned to Exeter Quay along the opposite side of the Exeter Ship Canal.
It was a lovely way to finish the walk, giving us completely different views for the final few miles.
Our Thoughts
This was by far our longest Exeter walk so far, but it was also one of the most rewarding.
From peaceful canal paths and wide-open riverside views to wildlife, a surprise ferry crossing and some excellent places to stop for food and refreshments, this circular route had something different around almost every corner.
If you’re looking for a longer walk around Exeter that combines beautiful scenery with a few unexpected highlights, we’d definitely recommend giving this one a try.
Just remember to wear comfortable footwear, bring plenty of water, and don’t forget your camera—you never know what wildlife you might spot along the way! 📸🌿
Tips if You’re Planning This Walk 💡
- 🥾 Wear suitable footwear. Most of the route is on good paths, but the section after Double Locks becomes much rougher. Walking boots are a good idea, especially after wet weather.
- 💧 Take plenty of water. At almost 12 miles, this isn’t a short stroll, particularly on a warm day.
- ☕ Plan a refreshment stop. There are plenty of options, including the Double Locks Inn, cafés in Topsham and Darts Farm.
- ⛴️ Check the ferry is running. If you’re planning to cross the River Exe as we did, it’s worth checking the ferry’s operating times beforehand, as services can vary.
- 🐦 Allow extra time for Bowling Green Marsh.
Would we do it again? Absolutely. It was our longest walk around Exeter so far, but the variety of scenery, wildlife and the unexpected ferry crossing made every mile worthwhile.
👉 Looking for more local adventures? Take a look at our Exeter Walks for more routes around the city, or browse our Things to Do in Exeter guide for even more ideas on places to visit.